Restaurants and Bars: (Click "Visit" to go to web sites if available. Phone numbers are local numbers. Other contact information available on individual web sites)

• La Trattoria. A bustling Italian bistro with local seafood cooked the Italian way and Italian homemade food with a zest to it. Are you in Italy? Or are you in Key West? Who cares. Everybody is laughing and having a great time. The bar is jumping. The waiters are zipping around the room like skiers on a slalom course. I had roasted whole heads of garlic there one night that had to be the best in the history of the world. Trattoria's spaghetti with garlic and red pepper flakes (like the ones you put on a pizza) is my absolute favorite. These folks are masters with the spices and herbs. In the side room is a beautiful, atmospheric, intimate bar called Virgilio's where you'll find everybody who's anybody in Key West . Reservations suggested. On Duval Street near Southard. 305-296-1075 Visit
• Two Friends Patio Restaurant. You won't find a better Key Lime pie, or conch fritters, or conch chowder, than is served up by Doug and his family at this favorite hangout for locals and visitors. Two Friends is one of the last of the old-time Key West outdoor restaurants. (It's where the Mel Fisher treasure-hunting crew used to cash their paychecks and discuss the hunt for the Atocha over a beer or six.) There's an air-conditioned area too and a karaoke stage where you might find a movie star, or the mayor, or maybe even you singing one night. (And did I mention the hamburgers? Oh! The hamburgers!) On Front Street near Duval. 305-296-3124 Visit
• Antonia's. One of Key West's most elegant and refined restaurants in terms of beauty and cuisine. By this, I don't mean stuffy. (I've seen people there in tuxedos and people there in mini-skirts and leather halters.) The food is terrific and the staff is all smiles and helpful advice. The local seafood is out of this world; the Italian specialties are fit for Lucullus himself; and the pasta is fresh homemade. Everything's so good I don't know what to recommend. Just close your eyes and point to the menu. Reserve. Antonia's is usually packed. On Duval Street near Southard. 305-294-6565 Visit
• BO's Fish Wagon. You don't get any more local than this. BO (stands for Buddy Owen) himself is a local. The square-grouper sandwiches are made with local groupers caught by local fishermen. There are so many local fish nets and lobster-trap floats and curiosities that you'll think you are dining in the middle of a shipwreck. Bo's has great laid-back food (including "hand-pulled" French fries) and the most laid-back atmosphere in Key West. There's even a misting system that cools the air. You're likely to see anybody here --rich, poor, famous, infamous. But none more amazing than Bo himself. BO's is on the corner of Caroline Street and WIlliam Street at the Key West Historic Seaport. It's the place with the tin roof and the palm thatch and the antique truck with a lady mannequin sleeping at the wheel and a couple of well-mannered dogs sitting around waiting for you to fumble a frankfurter. Company motto: "Seafood and eat it!" On Caroline Street near The Waterfront Market. 305-294-9272 Band on Friday.
• The Deli. A "blue plate special" restaurant is the only way to describe The Deli. But it just happens to serve the best pan-sauteed yellowtail snapper I have ever eaten. They have endangered American dishes like real meatloaf; and all kinds of vegetables such as summer squash, and fresh-cooked carrots, and mashed potatoes. Norman Rockwell would have loved it. On Sunday the crowd of local characters would have had his paint brushes smoking. Lots of fabulous stained-glass wall hangings of tropical fish and piles of local newspapers to to act like you're reading while you're trying to overhear the latest island rumor. Totally casual. Lots to eat. Easy on the wallet. Corner of Truman and Simonton. 305-294-1464
• Mangoes. Late night eating under giant white umbrellas surrounded by tropical foliage and a great view of the passing parade on Duval Street. Mangoes has all kinds of dishes that are totally unique -- magical Caribbean things right down to a plain old steak. When most restaurants are closing, Mangoes is just getting going. It's good any time of day, but it's nice to know you've got somewhere to go if you wake up late one night in your chair by the pool and hear your stomach growling at the moon. On Duval Street at Southard. 305-292-4606 Visit
• Kyushu. A delightful Japanese restaurant that's off the beaten path and way out of the ordinary. Kyushu's chef serves superb sushi and sashimi using the freshest local seafood. And there are plenty of items for people who are not into eating their fish au naturel. A couple of suggestions are chicken katsu and pork katsu -- strips of chicken or pork fried in the lightest imaginable batter. An unforgettable dessert is fried banana ice cream -- actually vanilla ice cream with a whipped cream sauce and lightly fried bananas. There's a beautiful koi pond with a waterfall and a friendly staff that will help you order. (If you can't manage chopsticks, they'll happily bring you a fork.) Parking available in the rear. Well-behaved dogs are welcome in the center courtyard. 921 Truman Avenue just a few blocks from White Street headed toward Duval. 305-294-2995
• Chico's Cantina. The best Mexican restaurant in all of Mexico is in Key West. Actually, almost in Key West. Chico's is located just a quick drive over the Cow Key Channel bridge right at the north edge of Key West on Stock Island. This is definitely not Tex-Mex. This is not a Chihuahua chain. The food at Chico's is as close to gourmet Mexican as it gets. Their fried jalapenos in a crispy crust with some kind of out-of-sight white creamy filling will knock you off your burro. Chico's is almost all local, but they make out-of-towners feel right at home. 305-296-4714 Visit
• Schooner Wharf Bar. Lots of music at this one: local bands, folk, country, rock. It's over on the water at the Key West Historic Seaport where the big sailboats dock. All kinds of people go there, from local dignitaries to local scruffs (friendly scruffs). If you hear something that sounds like an old gramophone squawk in your ear, its just the parrot on the next guy's shoulder. (To blend right in, wear something you were just getting ready to throw away.) Island specialties. Expert bartenders. My jewelry store is right down Lazy Way Alley on Elizabeth Street, so after a few drinks come on down and test out your credit card. 305-292-9520 Visit
• Salute! Ristorante Sul Mare. Beachside dining at a terrific Italian restaurant at Higgs Beach next to the White Street Pier. This casual dining establishment (bathing suits allowed as well as friendly dogs) is a real surprise. The food is elegantly simple and absolutely delicious. The prices are what I would call medium and the service friendly, but, because everything is prepared specially for you, plan on a little wait. There's plenty to watch going on right next to you on the beach. There's outdoor and covered dining, and the tropical breezes blow all through the restaurant. Lunch and dinner. (They close around 9:30 to 10:00 at night so call and check.) 1000 Atlantic Boulevard at Higgs Beach. 305-292-1117
• Monte's Seafood Restaurant and Fish Market. A place where the locals go when they want good seafood. All kinds of fresh local fish: fried in a crisp light batter, pan sauteed, or grilled. Generous portions and reasonable prices. Try Monte's king-sized Key West Shrimp Cocktail with about twice as many shrimp as you usually get elsewhere. Monte's is located at 1970 North Roosevelt Blvd catty-cornered from Charter Boat Row where the fish comes in as fresh as can be. Polite dogs are invited to join their masters on the outer deck. 305-294-1970
• Billie's Bar. "Where the sun sets in old Key West". Billie's is just a block from sunset, so you can sip one of their great tropical drinks and stroll on over. (The daily sunset time is posted on the side of the building so you won't be late!) One of the different things about Billie's is that they don't have loud music or bands. You can talk and be heard. And you can concentrate on the 8-ball at one of their three pool tables, or play backgammon without getting your eardrums blown into the middle of your brain. Billie's is a favorite place with locals and has been here over a quarter of a century. Good food and a good atmosphere. If you see a tall guy with a big grin, that's probably Billy. 407 Front Street. (Turn left at the end of Duval). 305-294-9292

Veterinarian
All Animal Clinic on Stock Island. Lisa Bramson, DVM, is the boss vet and she's great. Very up to date on her medicine. Conservative and thorough and straightforward. Hugs your dog and cat. The whole staff is excellent. 305-294-5255. Hours: 8-5 weekdays. 9-1 Saturday. If they're not open, a 24-hour emergency vet service will answer. IMPORTANT TO PET-OWNERS VISITING OR MOVING TO THE KEYS: Heartworm disease (borne by mosquitoes) and Erlichia (which can be caused by a single tick bite) are both life-threatening diseases prevalent in the Keys and in South Florida. Be sure to have your dog or cat get a blood test to determine if these diseases are present. Heartworm and Erlichia show few or no symptoms before they get extremely serious. Lots of new visitors here aren't aware of these hazards -- especially Erlichia. Make it top priority to see a vet about the risks. PS: The custom (and the law) in Key West is to pick up after your pet makes a deposit. Every little bit of effort helps keeps drain-off from contributing to ocean pollution.

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